Making Rings by Dale Detrich 2/25/2009
After a few years and attempts at making rings, I
thought that I would bring up the ring making again to see what was
working best for the builders.....I have tried to use the "Shores" way
of making rings, But for me it seems as if I get a reverse bend just
where I heated the rings.....I use a laser pointer and shine it at the
point where the ring meets the cylinder wall, and look to see if any
light is leaking past the ring/wall joint.....It is easy to see the
light if it passes behind the ring...I just finished making 30 rings the
other night ..I turn the O.D. to the cylinder dia. plus .002"/.003", so
my .750 " rings were at .753" O.D......I turn the I.D. to the piston
ring groove Dia. plus about .006", and that will leave about .003" to
.004" room at the ring to piston fit.....I use a .010 cut off tool to
part the rings off of the tube....I try to set the cut off tool, so that
one side of the cut off groove is a good smooth cut.....So that gives
you a smooth side, and a rough side to each ring as it is cut off of the
tube....I cut the rings off and leave some spare stock, about
.006"-.007" ......I make a tool to hold each cut off ring ( I will send
some pictures to David) and ask him to post them so you can see the
tool.....It is a fast , easy way to bring the rings down to the size
that you want for thickness......The tool in the pictures is my tool for
1.000" ring, and.060" thick....You want to make the holder out of the
hardest material that you have....You will have to turn the
round down to fit the drill motor that you have (mine is turned down to
.375")....You will have to bore a cavity to fit your rings, mine is
1.001 and is .060" deep....Try to leave a wide as posible outside rim on
the ring tool....I next put a 1" X 30" belt (you want to use a worn out)
, almost smooth sanding belt on the sander......Then fit a ring (with
the rough side out ) into the holder.....Bump the holder into the belt
sander, (with the sander off), then turn both the drill motor and the
sander......This spins the ring, against the moving belt.....Sand the
face of the ring until you feel the load come off of the belt
sander.....Pull the tool away from the sander, and you should have a
smooth side on the ring...Now reverse the ring in the tool, and again
bump the tool into the sander belt.....Again
start the sander and the drill motor, and when you sand the ring down to
the right thickness you will feel the load come off of the sander
again.....Just back off the belt, pop the ring out and check for the
correct ring thickness.....
Do not force the ring into the belt sander, use just enough force to
keep the ring against the belt.....It takes a "bit" of time to get the
feel of using the tool......Then I take the ring blank (it will have
both sides sharp), and run it against a scotch bright wheel, to take
away the sharp edges......I then use a toenail clipper to cut the ring
then I use a diamond finger nail to clean up the cut ends of the
ring....I now take the ring and fit it to the cylinder, and
finish the ends of the ring to leave a small end gap....Now I find a bit
of flat stock ( I used .080"), then spread the ring and "hang" the ring
on the flatstock.....Then take a medium sizes propane torch, with a
medium sized flame
and with a circular motion bring the ring to a dull red color.....You
will see the ring relax as it is being heated.....
Then let the ring air cool down.....I think that is where I am having
some trouble, and that is where the ring may twist durning the heating
and cooling cycle....I think that I will see if I can come up with and
make the holders to keep the rings from twisting while they are heating
and cooling..........I get some "good" rings, and some not so good
rings....Sorry to take up the space....If you have any questions, Please
get in touch.....Dale Detrich